Sunday, 2 December 2007

Haere Mai - Welcome!


Haere Mai - Welcome!
Prepare yourself to be amazed this is the trip of a lifetime.
My itinerary was as follows:
December
2 LHR – Singapore 18.15
3 Singapore 14.55 pm in pool… lol 19.45 to Christchurch
4 arrive in Christchurch at 10.40am – fly to Sydney at 3pm
5 Sydney
6 Sydney - fly to Hervey Bay
7 Hervey Bay (beach all day)
8 Fraser Island – flight + 4x4
9 Hervey Bay am at leisure – 1pm flight to Sydney
10 Sydney to Auckland
11 Drive to Coromandel Peninsula
12 Thames to – Coromandel Town, Whitianga, Hot Water Beach, Cathedral Cove, Tairua, Whangamata, Waihi and drive back to Auckland – stay over night
13 Drive to Bay of Islands – Helensville, Helena bay, Opua ferry to Pahia
14 Pahia – Haruru Falls - Kerikeri
15 Drive to Whangaroa and Mangaonui
16 drive to Auckland
17 drive to Rotorua
18 Rotorua - Polynesian Spa – drive to Whakatane (Bay of Plenty)
19 Drive to Wai-o-Tapu - Lake Taupo - drive to Napier
20 Am in Napier –drive up to Lake Taupo - Waitomo
21 Waitomo – see 3 caves – back to Auckland (sleep)
22 Return car and fly to Wellington
23 Wellington
24 Wellington – 1pm flight to Brisbane
25 Brisbane
26 Brisbane
27 Brisbane
28 drive to Noosa
29 drive to Surfers Paradise
30 Brisbane
31 Fly to Sydney – Fireworks
January
1   Sydney
2  Sydney – fly to Christchurch
3  Transcenic to Picton – drive to Nelson and Motueka (sleep)
4  Drive to Marahau – 11km walk in Abel Tasman Park – Drive to Takaka (sleep)
5  Drive to Collingwood and Farewell then across to Whanganui Inlet - Takaka (sleep)
6  Drive down to Murchinson - Westport - Greymouth - Franz Josef stop for pics – Lake Matheson
7  Drive down to Haast and Wanaka
8 Wanaka – Milford Sound
9  Drive to Queenstown – Glenorchy
10 Drive to Cromwell Town - Twizel - Mount Cook – Lake Tekapo - Mount John Observatory – Geraldine
11 drive to Akaroa
12 drive through Akaroa Peninsula on way back to Christchurch
13 Christchurch - Singapore
14 Arrive in London 5.45am
 
After a manageable 12 hour flight I landed in Singapore and ran to the pool… yes you heard right. Singapore airport has a swimming pool in Terminal 1… amazing anh?
So there was I, laying in a recliner chair, the sun on my face and a grin… life is beautiful.
The afternoon flew by and it was time to board the second leg of my journey, Singapore – Christchurch . After an hours sleep and 3 films later I landed in Kiwi Land... The sun was shining, I smilled but I had another flight to catch first:
Christchurch – Sydney
I went to visit my friend and Sydney received me with thunder and rain, but it was 30º C so I did not complain.
Arriving in Sydney was like arriving home, I think I am under a spell when in Australia. My girlfriend took me to an 90min Bikram Yoga class as I arrived and I loved it, did not do all the exercises but almost all of them. Needless to say I slept like a baby…
The next day I went to see a private fashion show where my friend was modeling. The clothes were very pretty and the philosophy behind the brand appealed to me. The designer and owner of Malone, was in Hoi An in Vietnam and the idea started there. I thought it was a very pleasant coincidence, as seen that I had been there too. If you are interested visit www.malonefashion.com
I managed to convince my friend to come with me to Fraser Island. She did not need much convincing. So we flew to Hervey Bay and headed straight to the beach… what an amazing sleepy place. The town is very small but people, like in many other places, are amazingly friendly. The man at the motel did his best to find us the best tours and spent the whole day trying to no avail to get us a car. We had lunch at Soul Sá, the owners have just started in the restaurant business and were ever so kind, the Chef cooked us Chili Prawns with Spaghetti and Soulmama Salad… yami… amazing!! 
We spent the afternoon lazing on the beach until early evening. The water was amazingly warm, I can guess around 30 to 32 degrees... I swear! We changed and hit town but the only action we saw was at the Beach Hotel and we sat down to get disappointed with the food and service.
Car rental in Hervey Bay was per person not per car... which we though was very strange. So after ascertaining that we could not get any car in Hervey Bay we decided to go for a fly/drive to Fraser Island. It was even cheaper than renting a car. We used Air Fraser Island and we paid $425 for both os us - fligh and 4x4 included. We flew there on a small plane similar to a Cessna (but Australian made), landed on the beach and there a 4x4 awaited us. Here we had to leave a deposit with the office but it is refunded at the end of the day when you return the car.
We drove first to Lake Mackenzie. The 1 hour drive was partly done on the beach and partly through sand tracks, a great challenge. I loved it of course. My friend was enjoying being driven around so much that she did not drive, despite me insisting on it. After a swim in Lake Mackenzie we drove back to the beach and went north to the ship wreck, the Pinnacles and Eli Creek. The plane waited for us at 3.45 and we did not have time to see anything else on the island. Needless to say the experience was unforgettable.
We went back to Soul Sá for more amazing food. But all that is precious comes to an end and the following morning we had our last meal - Brunch - at guess where... the Soul Sá. We were not going to even try to find another place. We flew back to Sydney, where I left my friend and I got on another plane. This time to Auckland, in order to start my Kiwi adventure. 

Sydney - Auckland

I rented a car with Jucy and drove around the city. However I did not feel like staying in the city one night so drove straight to the Coromandel Peninsula. I took the HW1 direction Manukau City and then followed signs to Coromandel Peninsula through HW25. The landscape is absolutely lovely therefore I decided to stay overnight in Thames, so I could see the landscape up the coast the following day. Thames is very small and, dare I say it, empty town after 7pm. I stayed at the Brynies Hotel, which is also a pub. Single rooms w/ensuite cost $50. For dinner I chose the Goldmine Café because they had free internet access. A rarity in NZ, as most hotspots are paid for.
So on the morning of the 10th I started my drive up the coast from Thames to Coromandel Town, via Tapu. What a gorgeous road and landscape. I knew this road would have fantastic views therefore chose to drive up the coast during the day to fully appreciate its beauty. I had to stop over and over again to appreciate and be amazed at the beauty surrounding me. The greens are magical, hypnotizing… I never seen so many shades of green… The weather was mainly grey but warm enough to show off my 2 day tan (from Hervey Bay) in a lovely summer dress… and it made it all the more pleasant to get out of the car at every corner and bay and go for a walk and take some pics.

From Coromandel Town I drove across the peninsula to Whitianga. Here a passenger only ferry crosses over to Cooks Beach, but unfortunately for me I was driving and therefore had to drive all the way around. At Whenuakite I drove to Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach. 



Hot water beach is a lovely cove, well two coves actually, separated by a cliff wall where, if you dig a hole in the sand, you can sit in a pool of really hot water. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t great and the tide was up so not much space to do it. So I watched some hopefuls digging. Don’t worry about not having a spade, you can rent one at the local shop. Across from the car park there is an art gallery, which has amazing stuff produced by a local artist.
Tairua and Whangamata are two other perfect little towns but pressed for time I drove directly down to Waihi beach. What a lovely seaside resort. After lunch I drove straight back to Auckland. I stayed at City Central Hotel. Great choice and value for money. Single rooms w/ensuite are $85, internet access is paid for by the hour or 24h voucher for $20. Car park is just around the corner at the same entrance of the Crowne Plaza Hotel. If you park after 6pm and take your car out before 10am you pay only $6 overnight charge, arrange this with the hotel. If you arrive late in the afternoon and just want dinner and rest I recommend the steak at the almost next door Tony's.
The next day off I went up north to the Bay of Islands and another series of WoW’s... I just could not stop saying it… This country is truly amazing, the sheer beauty of this landscape really transcends me. I took the whole day driving up 400km but it was worth it because I just could not stand the thought of not having a peep at another gorgeous bay or beach. And to make it even more special, there was nobody at these beaches but me.
I took the motorway direction of Helensville, for obvious reasons (my name...). The motorway exits are very well signposted and after coffee in Helensville I continued north on HW16 towards Te Hana, Brynderwyn, Waipu, Hikurangi, where I saw a signpost for Helena Bay. I knew I just had to stop. The gallery and coffee shop at Helena Bay Hill is full of gorgeous art, jewelry and crafts and in the coffee shop terrace you have a breathtaking view, really to die for.
I continued on the scenic route, which contours the coast up and down the hills towards Russell, but did not continue to Russell instead took the ferry to Opua and the Bay of Islands. On arrival at Pahia I had my first glimpse of the Bay of Islands amidst the trees and I knew, this was a magical place. WOW! With big letters indeed. This is a place that deserves a week, 2 weeks, even 3 weeks. The peace, the spiritual wellbeing, the warm people, good food and great trips makes Pahia a lovely destination. I stayed 4 full days and wished I had an extra week.
The first night I was recommended 2 restaurants Café 6 and Peppercorn. I opted for the first one and a lovely German man Michael, greeted me with the warmest smile ever. His wife was a delightful host too and I ordered what she recommended - tuna and monk fish on a seabed of vegetables and rice - and did not regret it. It was simply Divine!
That evening I watched the Culture North Night Show ($55 with pick up included). The show describes in theatre form the arrival of the first Maoris, the story of New Zealand and about the Treaty of Waitangi.
On my way back from the show I went in the restaurant and Michael invited me to the table where he sat with 5 German friends and I did have an extra glass of wine with them… oh what a laugh we had. Some places you just feel very welcome and this place was exceptional, which meant I went everyday for breakfast but not for dinner as I really wanted to try the other restaurants.
The next day I took the ferry to Russell - what a quaint little port village. Then in the afternoon I took a boat tour of the Hole in the Rock. The sea was ever so rough, my oh my... After resting a bit I managed to go out and had dinner at Stonegrill - steak on a hot stone.
The following morning I drove to Kerikeri a delightfull shopping paradise, where I managed to find a few bargains. If you come here do stop at the Stone Store and Mission House. The Stone house underwent major conservation work in 1990 and now retains its early character. The Mission House received a few changes and the latest in 1970 meant that the house was returned fairly close to what it looked like in 1843, and what a lovely step back in time this tour is. I had lovely scallops for dinner at the Peppercorn.
The drive to Mangonui is pleasant and very pretty, with a few stops at Whangaroa and another bay I managed to get to Mangonui - a lovely place by the seafront - just in time for lunch. A group of musicians were playing in the restaurant terrace and I could not have chosen a better place to eat.
Sadly it was time to leave the Bay of Islands. Unfortunately I could not fit in Cape Reinga but the drive seemed too long to do in one day. So I had my last breakfast at Café 6, said goodbye to my 'friends' and started my drive back to Auckland. I stopped to take photos of the famous toilets in Kawakawa before continuing to Whangarei, Waipu, Te Hana, Orewa and finally Auckland for one night. I headed to the same hotel, which was central and cheap. I had dinner at the local chinese, great choice.
The following morning I headed down south to Rotorua - the smelly city.
Smelly indeed... I stayed at Sudima Hotel (www.sudimahotels.com) and the stench was impossible... but I had to endure it 2 more days... This region has a large geothermic area and geysers and hot springs abound in the region.
That evening I booked myself into a traditional Maori dinner at Maitai Village (www.mitai.co.nz) . The tour includes traditional dinner cooked in earth ovens, a show about the arrival of maoris in NZ, warriors paddling a waka - ancient war canoe and an explanation of their Ta Moko tattoo facial art.
Dinner included chicken, some red meat which they said it was lamb but unless lambs here are very skinny this was a kiwi not lamb. But I reckon they say lamb so people won’t go yak… I liked it. The sweet potatoes and the kiwi were the best. There were salads and roasted potatoes as well as some stuffing and the evening ended with a tour of the village in the dark to spot the glow worms.
The next day I spent the morning, just around the corner, at the Polynesian Spa (www.polynesianspa.co.nz). The Spa includes several pools and rock pools. I opted for the 4rock pools where the water temperature ranges from 36 to 42 degrees. What a relaxing time!! In the afternoon I drove to Wakatane in the Bay of Plenty coast. The weather was a bit rainy so I did just do the driving around the seafront and back to Rotorua. At night my feast was from the middle east and I ate at a Turkish restaurant. I had the dips, and a mixed grill… I was stuffed, only space for an apple tea.
The following day was cloudy as well and I decided to drive to Napier. I was curious to see the art deco buildings. I woke up early and drove to Wai-o-Tapu (Sacred Waters) Thermal Wonderland (www.geyserland.co.nz). I first drove to the location where Lady Knox Geyser erupts every day at 10.15am. I was slightly disappointed by the fact that it is a provoked eruption. Some soap is thrown into the geyser's mouth and 8-10 min later the geyser erupts. After that I walked through the trail to all the colourful volcanic craters and pools, including the champagne pool, artists palette and devil's pool.
Huka Falls was next on the list but when you’ve been to Niagara and Iguaçu falls, poor Huka Falls rate very low as far as Falls go… but it must be cool coming down the rapids in a jet boat. Shame its raining miserably. So instead I went to Huka Prawn Farm Park (www.prawnpark.co.nz) a very funny place where you can have a go at catching some prawns for your lunch or to take away. I went there only to eat them, and they were delicious… much better than the Brazilian ones in fact. The taste is sweet and very mild, really yummy…
Lake Taupo was covered in grey and rain. However it must be nice in summer or in the sun so I hoped that on my way back from Napier the weather would be better.
I arrived in Napier at around 5pm and after booking into a hotel I walked through the centre. I had dinner at the Brasserie 311, opted for the fish dish and yet again enjoyed the nouvelle cuisine I got so accostumed in NZ. To end a perfect meal I asked for desert and a 20 Year Port Wine...  
After breakfast I took some pictures and drove up to Lake Taupo, the wether was glorious, what a difference from the previous day driving down, when it was pouring down as if there was no tomorrow. This time I was able to appreciate the lovely scenery and yet again be mesmerised by the greenery around. I was able to see Lake Taupo in all its glory. I sat outside and had a lovely juice and sandwich and then had to spend an hour or so inside in an internet café to book some flights.
At around 5pm I drove up to Waitomo on a secondary road heading onto HW32 to then turn left to HW30. I stayed overnight at The Panoram Hotel in Te Kuiti. Lovely views and just close enough to drive to the caves in the morning. Waitomo Caves (www.waitomocaves.co.nz) consist of 3 very different caves - the Glowworm Caves, Ruakuri Caves and Aranui Caves. I started with Ruakuri Caves at 9am – the biggest and most impressive. Here you can also do water rafting down the Black Labyrinth, or subterranean rivers and abseil down the depths of this amazing cave. Unfortunately it takes 5 hours and NZ$250 to do both and on my own it wasn’t much fun… so maybe next time…
Then it was time to visit the world famous Glow Worm Cave, where after a quick tour of the cave the group was taken to 2 boats and showed the worms. Fancy paying $35 to see worm’s poo… never mind... an experience I will never forget (lol) and finally Aranui Cave, which hosts a 5 metre stalactite. Pretty amazing. It is perfectably feasible in one morning and like that I had the whole afternoon to get back to Auckland, leisurely on the state road 22. For most of the way I was the only car on the road and it was awsome to just enjoy the beautiful nature at my own pace, stopping anytime I wanted.
For those who live in England, this country is like the Lake District extended all over the country. For those who are not familiar with the Lake District I can assure you this is a painters' paradise, the views are breathtaking.
Another night in Auckland at my favourite hotel - City Central Hotel - and in the morning after taking the car back to the rent a car company I was taken to the airport.

Auckland - Wellington
The flight was just slightly delayed but one of the cabin crew was so funny it kind of lifted everyone’s spirits. We were just taxying - getting to the runway - and because it was taking a long time he announced cheerfully “no, we are not driving to Wellington, we are flying, please just bare with us while we take the longest runway...”, then he said something else about his colleague… oh yeh… we were still waiting and he said “well, while we wait for taking off Sandra here is going to sing us a song… no she is not, just bare with us while we get a green light to take off.” And he said something else… yes about smoking… “this is a no smoking plane, if you feel like one please just step outside…”  He was great at getting us all happy shame about the native next to me snoring…
I headed for my accommodation, The Hotel, on Willis Street, very central within walking district of Cuba and Lambton quarters. I had wireless internet access in the room and thought that at $85/night it was great value for money. 15 minutes later I was walking to the centre, had my nails done and came back to the hotel. After a shower and change I headed to the Matterhorn. I had read that some of the crew from the Lord of the Rings had eaten there, and the Jetstar inflight magazine also advertised the restaurant as one of the best in town. I was not disappointed, the food recommended was excellent, the desert even better. The couple in the next table started a conversation with me and I was rather pleased to have someone to talk to. The lady was from Sydney and the husband from England but lived in Sydney since he was a child, until they both decided to move to Wellington. Which made me think that we are all looking to live somewhere else rather than the place we are at the moment. Hummm... food for thought...
Dinner dragged over a Port wine and conversation about immigration. When I finally decided to leave I was still not in the mood to go back to the hotel. Ernesto, the bar in the next corner, had a live band playing and I entered for a last coffee.
Wellington was proving to be quite a quaint vibrant self-contained city. The next morning I hurried to choose a cafe nearby to have breakfast. Then I walked to the cable car, paid for one way only as I decided to walk down. The views are amazing and the track down easy to follow. I then walked down to Queen Wharf and continued along the waterfront past the Te Papa Museum and made my stop at the beach in Orient Bay.

What a lovely walk, the weather was mild, no wind that day, bearing in mind Wellington is famous for being quite windy, so I just sad down in one of the benches and enjoyed watching kids playing, teenagers rollerskating, families walking up and down. I decided to walk back to the museum. I am not a museum person but I liked Te Papa Museum, there were quite a few interesting facts about global warming and its effects in New Zealand in particular. A wooden house simulating a earthquake, maori houses and artifacts, etc. Definitely a place to take kids as there is do much to do, see, and learn, about animals and the world around us, and for the little ones there is an activities corner.
Still too early to go back to the hotel and getting ready for dinner I decided to take a taxi to Mount Victoria and enjoy even more lush views of the city. Now I definitively agreed with my first impression, Wellington looks like Sydney, in the sense that it has the hills, the waterfront lifestyle, the beach and is quite modern. I liked it! I liked it alot...
On my way down from Mount Victoria I sat down on a bench looking over the harbour and city down below, and took it all in... At certain times I feel the need to be grateful, to let emotion run through me and allow me to carry on breathing. Being faced with so much beauty and so much freedom causes one to be tearful some times... The sun was shining, there was no wind and I felt on top of the world. What a relaxing spot... I finally made all the way down to the beach and had a gorgeous ice cream at a little ice cream shop at the seafront.
I walked back to the city centre and sat down at a splanade with a glass of wine. I was ever so pleased with this trip.  I was extremelly pleased to find a city so different from Auckland. Wellington definitively reminded me of Sydney, a baby Sydney (lol), with the hills, parks, beach, wharf, marina... Ah... I was ever so pleased.
That evening I ate at Ernesto's and the food was also gorgeous. The prawns were exceptionally good and for desert I had rice pudding... my favourite.
The next morning I had a leisurely walk and had breakfast at a bagel shop down on Willis Street before heading down to the airport - to spend Christmas in Brisbane.

Wellington - Brisbane
Brisbane received me unsure of the weather, it had rained earlier but now the sun was trying to pop through the clouds.
After leaving my bag at the hotel (Snooze Inn) which although slightly away from the cente is just around the corner from the train station, and 2 stations away from Central. Havng said that Fortitude Valley is where Chinatown and the clubs are so if you are into dancing the night away this is the right place for you. If not, well don't despair, just take the train and head to the centre of brisbane, you're just 10 min away. Because, to be honest, even during the day this area looks a bit shabby. The Snooze Inn was also a bargain at $90 for a single with ensuite shower, TV and breakast, served in a breakfast area.
So my first adventure in Brisbane was to take the ferry up and down the river. The city felt somewhat deserted but as it was Christmas it wasn't a complete surprise... on the way back I stopped at Southbank and watched people bathing in the man made pool area. I found a Lebanese restaurant just after this and sat to eat a lovely Tabuleh salad with homous and pita bread. The weather was warm but cloudy but I didn't care. I was hopeful.
Christmas day at the beach.... well maybe next year. The weather wasn't good enough and I did not find a car to rent so there was nothing else to do but sightseeing. So I took the train to Central and strolled across the empty city. It was kind of nice. I was able to concentrate on window shopping and places instead of the people crisscrossing my path. I can't remember what I had for lunch but in the afternoon I went to the cinema. I have a long tradition of watching TV on christmas day as it is the only day of the year that I get to just sit down and completely relax without feeling guilty. So on keeping with tradition I went to see 'Atonement'. I cannot say if I liked it for the actual story or because it helped me pass time. I had mixed reviews.
The next day I attempted the coast on train. The train stops everywhere and it takes a long time to get to Surfers Paradise but I got to see more than just a motorway and trees, which cannot be bad. But the weather was not very nice, it rained the all day so I saw little more than the shops and restaurants. I peaked at the beach to quickly take refuge under another shop. Shame. So after lunch I got back to Brisbane and went to the cinema. I saw Darjeleeing Ltd. Very funny, indeed. Crapy story but when the cast includes Owen Wilson it means you end up saying it was actually very enjoyable.
So desperate the next day I headed to Avis and decided to spend a fortune and a rent a car for 2 days. They only had cars from 12 noon so I went back to the hotel to kill time. Joyce, one of the ladies staying at the hotel was still at the breakfast table and I joined her to ask about her husband, who had a stroke and was recovering at the local hospital. After a brief chat she asked if I wanted to go with her to the hospital while I waited to go and get my car so I did. Her husband was in good spirits and had 3 other visitors that morning which was a change for him. Joyce and I came down to the cafeteria to eat something and she spoke passionately about her farm and what it entails to have such a big property. I was invited to go and visit whenever I want. I bet my kids would love that.
I decided against getting the car in the afternoon as it would mean I could not go anywhere very far that afternoon or the morning of the day I needed to return the car, so called them and arranged to pick up the car the next morning. With some free time I headed for the cinema… I watched ‘PS: I love you!’, a really good girly movie, romantic and funny.
 So car sorted the next morning I drove up to Noosa in the Sunshine Coast (so much for the name as it was grey and rained a bit…lol). Noosa Heads is very busy for its size but very quaint and I can see the attraction to the nice boutiques, bars and restaurants. The next day I drove down to Byron Bay in the Gold Coast. A beautiful beach town, great for surfers and good fish… The beach reminded me of Costa da Caparica in Portugal in a more compacted way. The weather was better here and I enjoyed the whole morning at the beach. I had a lovely lunch in town and walked around the shops till it was time to go, so I walked back to my car and drove back to Brisbane.
Well the end of the year approaching and with one more day to kill I went to the city, walked through the city, crossed the Goodwill Bridge to southbank for lunch and enjoyed another warm lovely day, not much sun again but not raining. And guess where I went late afternoon ? Yes! To the cinema… lol ... I was enjoying this cinema craze very much. I saw National Treasure 2 but it was so similar to the first one I wonder if it was really a sequel… never mind it was fun.
And the end of the year arrived with a nasty surprise. Boredom by airport... because I kind of missed my flight. Well I didn’t but did... I went to the domestic terminal and this particular flight was leaving from the international terminal, which meant check-in closed 1 hour prior to departure and I was 5 minutes late… aarrrrgggghhh
Great tip, when in Australia, in particular in Brisbane, always check which terminal your Jetstar flight is leaving from.
I hate it when I mess up. So instead of leaving at 7.30 am I had to endure a barbaric and painful wait of 4 hours at the airport. I took  the next flight at 12.45, yes a 4 hour wait... I just hope new years eve fireworks make it all worth it… 
The weather in Sydney was glorious. My friend had some stuff to do so I said I would meet up with her later and went to check the craze around the Opera House. Mad... just mad... it looked like people had camped there since the wee hours of the morning. Everyone was settled in their portable chairs or in pillows, some already digging in their picnics others just digging in their bottles of beer and spirits... the atmosphere was electrifying, everyone seemed happy and in expectation. At 4pm the entrance to the Opera House was closed and I walked around towards the quay to see if I could go to Darlington Harbour but no, the queues were atrocious and the wait just bored me. So I found a bus and headed to my friends house.
The evening was clear and just beautiful, which meant the night would be clear to see the fireworks from anywhere. And whatever you have heard or seen on TV does not match the emotion of seeing it live. I believe that from afar it is even more spectacular because you can see the whole effect. I watched it from somewhere between Vaucluse and Watsons Bay. Each road top was packed with people filming or just watching and the collective wows was contagious. The display is carefully coreographed with music transforming this in a fantastic display of colour and music.
Sydney - Christchurch

The flight from Sydney to Christchurch was pleasant and I headed to my chosen Hotel - The Windsor Hotel. A bargain at $82/night. Facilities are shared but very clean. It seemed that every time someone had a shower or went to the toilet a cleaning lady would come and clean it. It was always spotless.
I headed into town for my first impressions tour of the city. Although a pretty little city, where the city centre is quite compact and easy to walk through, I found myself counting too many souvenir shops... I boarded the Shuttle - the free bus - and toured the city centre. It is easy to spot because it is yellow and runs at 10 min intervals till 10.30pm. It runs on a loop tour so you can always get on and off as you please.
That evening I walked to the centre yet again and chose a restaurant with a table available on New Regent Street. Although I waited almost 1h for my dinner the food was quite good.
The next day I woke up very early to wait for the free shuttle, which collects everyone on a route and takes them to the station. The shuttle did not actually stop in front of my hotel but just a few meters across the road in front of the Croydon House Hotel. At the station I queued... The transcenic was waiting for all eager passengers. And I was excited about the trip. I had not been on a train trip like this since Vietnam and I was kind of assured that this time both the comfort and views would be 1st class.
The views were spectacular, 40 min into the trip the scenery changes and it's just so unbelievably beautiful. The 2nd car of this train is an open wagon and I could take pictures of both the staggering beauty of the sea on one side and the mountains, valleys and wineries on the other.
Picton received me on a sunny early afternoon. I was ever so surprised to see such a little quaint little town by a busy port. The ferry from Wellington arrives here too and so I sat on a esplanade watching people getting out of the boat and people heading for the boat.
Next was Nelson, although I read so much about Nelson and surrounding areas I could not stay longer and see everything. I had to make some decisions, important decisions, because everything looked so interesting. I opted to drive to Golden Bay even though it seemed the worst choice, but as always there is always something that triggers my impulse. So I drove to Motueka and tired of driving but not of the scenery I stopped at Kaiteriteri… what a fabulous discovery, what an amazing sunset… Unfortunately for me everyone else seem to know about this little secret and had booked in advance, which meant I had no room for the night so I went back to Motueka and stayed at the backpackers place.
In the morning I drove to Marahau, the first port of call to the Abel Tasman Park, from where my walk would start. I booked a water taxi for the return and embarked on my 11 km walk… There are different walks lengths, some people camp for a few nights on their walk across the whole Park. I did the shortest possible walk and was amazed with myself when I got to the beach in Anchorage head of time for the boat.
I was dead tired when I got to Takaka, and the lovely meal at the Brigand lifted my spirits. I tried the most amazing wine of the whole holiday, it was hard but the Siefried was indeed one of the best wines I drank in NZ. The next morning I drove to Colingwood and Farewell Spit, where I sat at the veranda of the only Café having my breakfast and contemplating yet another magnificent view.
On the way back I didn’t hesitate to follow a few cars heading to Cape Farewell and Wharariki Beach. WoW! What can I say…
I parked in a small car park at the entrance of Hilltop Walk and was sure that these people parked here were not here just for the walk but what I didn’t know was that I was about to discover... yet another amazing secret location on this beautiful south island and this was just the top of the island, I had yet to discover the rest… I was in for too many surprises. If you read this and look on the map and think huuummm, it seems a long way to go and then come back on the same road, well just look at this website…  http://www.goldenbayindex.co.nz/beaches.htm
and see what I saw… compare with my pics and I guarantee you will never forget this place. What a great decision. Obviously I wanted to do a cruise on the Marlborough Sounds and maybe go to one or two wineries in Marlborough but I wanted to visit so many other places too that I had to go down south, so I headed to Westport, via Murchinson. First stop Pankake Rocks. Nature is truly amazing. http://www.punakaiki.co.nz/
I am not sure but I may have driven all the way down to Lake Matheson via Greymouth as I do not recall sleeping anywhere on the way. I really should write this as a blog, and write a bit everyday during the actual holiday not a few months later… lol
I stopped a few times on the way, unfortunately I do not have the actual names, however if you drive down this road you will find the most amazing places to stop. Franz Josef Glacier welcomed me for a drink and something to eat and glorious photographs. But lake Matheson was on my mind and I could not wait so I drove straight to it and relaxed my aching legs by walking around the lake for about an hour. On a clear day it is possible to see Mount Cook reflected on the lake waters but I was not in luck. I got a few pics of reflections but Mount Cook was playing hide and seek that day.
I stayed the night and had a horrible meal at the local pub. So with nothing else worth mentioning, the next morning I headed down south on my way to Haast and Queenstown. The weather was terrible, grey and raining. It looked miserable but the scenery was still quite amazing. I stopped at the Salmon Farm Café for breakfast and again what a lovely view. Sometimes the places you least expect to be good surprise you in a very good way. I continued and stopped at Ship Creek Walks, a beach along the road full of drift wood, it looked like it wasn’t going to stop raining and I just wanted to arrive somewhere nice…
The road ahead was full of waterfalls piercing through the rocks and if I opened my window I could just touch the water spray coming from some of them.
I stopped again, this time at Fantail Falls, with no time to walk for 3 hours I opted for the 2 min walk to the falls, and to take some pics. What a magnificent peaceful place.
The road continues along the coast and I could see blue skies ahead. I was in luck as I turned the corner into Lake Hawea the sun started to appear and a slight breeze pushed the clouds away and by the time I got to Wanaka the weather was quite warm.
I headed to the tourist office and this time opted for a hotel a little bit further away from the town centre, and what a find. http://www.maplelodgewanaka.co.nz/ 


The couple who owns the luxurious Maple Lodge are from England and were ever so kind. I was starving and they recommended Missy’s Kitchen so after a quick shower and change I headed to town again and sat at the veranda of Missy’s to be amazed yet again. The view contemplates the lake, and the sun was just right on this beautiful evening. And what gorgeous food indeed... I think I had the prawn cannelloni for starters and a fish dish for mains and the desert was divine. I think they changed their menu but check it out… http://www.missyskitchen.co.nz/ 
Needless to say I came back the next day. Lake Wanaka is a lovely place, of all the places I have seen this is the winner so far. The town is not too big, has all the amenities, a lake, therefore beach, and nearby is Milford Sound where I headed the following day by plane. I had to as time was running out for me to drive there and back. Also my wallet was running thinner and so I had to decide between Milford Sound and skydiving, I had to do the first.
The flight was spectacular, the mountain range is impressive and the entrance to Milford Sound is breathtaking. Straight after landing we (we, the passengers) were taken to the boat and cruised the stretch of water that makes Milford Sound. I was delighted with the magnificence of this place. The falls are small but impressive amidst the whole scenery. I was pleased to have had the privilege to see such beauty. I wish to go back definitely...
Missy's Kitchen rewarded me with another fantastic meal that evening and I cannot say enough about the food here. Again the sun was sill shinning at 7pm and I enjoyed the evening looking at people still in the water and other just leaving taking their boats back home after a delightful day in the lake, I am certain of it.
After Wanaka I was keen to see more and so I drove to Queenstown and Glenorchy. I stopped in Queenstown for lunch and a walk about. What a lovely and picturesque city! After a huge lovely ice cream, I decided to see more of the raw side of Queenstown suburbs. I drove yet again on a road to nowhere, I kind of like this idea now. I drove pass a place called Little Paradise and immediately stopped. I was lucky enough to have a room available for that night. The German owner was very sympathetic and showed me around this truly little paradise. The house is decorated with a 70's style so characteristic and charming it was impossible to avoid a picture or two, or even 10...
He has the most amazing stone sculptures and stone carvings with the distances from Little Paradise to other places in the world. WoW! A work of art and dedication. Fabulous!
It was still early and I headed to Diamond Lake pass in Glenorchy town. Yet another beautiful drive which ends in another breathtaking place, the water was freezing but that did not deter a couple bathing in it. I walked pass them and continued until I could not see them, privacy is what they came here for I am sure... lol
That evening the owner of Little Paradise and 2 other girls, that arrived after me, were preparing dinner and invited me to join them, we talked until late and then I went to sleep, I lay awake watching the most amazing starry sky I have ever seen from a bed. I have seen a few great nights in the Maldives and in Brazil , but not from the comfort of my bed. My eyes insisted on closing but I wanted to see the stars… I finally fell asleep but kept waking up to this amazing dark blue sky adorned with bright stars… what a treat!
In the morning the sun kissed my face and I stayed in another half an hour to absorb the beauty before me. It was time to move on again and I reluctantly said goodbye to Little Paradise.
Queenstown was already starting to get busy at 9am when I left headed to Mount Cook. I have seen it from so many places I decided I needed to go closer. So I drove to Cromwell Town and sat outside to have a late breakfast. I drove strait until I arrived at Lake Pukaki... what an amazing blue colour... I am running out of adjectives, or too gobsmacked to find new ones. I swear I never seen these shades of blue before in my life. I stayed in awe for a while taking it all in.
I drove to the Hermitage Hotel and had a late lunch looking at the amazing and majestic Mount Cook. There are moments in life when we wonder how many other lucky people there are in the world. People that get the chance to do exactly what they want and be in wonderful places admiring beauty. In different places I felt this blessing come over me. I felt very humble again.
But alas I could not afford to stay, so I drove back. I wondered how many people would bother to drive up a one way road, however if you are in doubt and have the hour to spare, just do it. Driving besides Lake Pukaki is a delightful drive and the reward is sitting outside in the sunshine (I hope) and admire Mount Cook ever so close.
I drove to Lake Tekapo, again the turquoise colour of this lake almost blinds you to a dream like state, you feel hypnotised. Because in this area the air is so pure Canterbury University operates an observatory in the area. Mt St John Observatory is a must stop if you are driving to Christchurch. The Cafe at the top is quite small but who goes there for the coffee? The views are just sensational.
The evening was approaching and I still had a few miles until my bed for the night. I booked myself in a family run hotel in Geraldine. I liked the name. How cool to live in a place called Geraldine. And the city was ever so cute as I discovered the next morning.
Upon arrival I was greeted by the whole family and shown to my room in the attic. Nice! I had a shower and slept. I was dead tired. The next morning a sumptuous breakfast was served in the garden and what a garden... The property has a lake and beautiful cared for gardens which I could not see well the previous evening. I took my time walking around after breakfast and left once again with a smile. It seemed that every day in this country was a motive to smile. Did I say enough times that I loved New Zealand?
Geraldine turned out to be a pretty sleepy town but not sleepy lazy, sleepy relaxing. There was a good vibe in the air. I had coffee in a esplanade, called my kids and headed to Christchurch. Now I had heard or read about the Akaroa Peninsula and was ever so curious to find out about this place that I did not even think twice and somewhere off the HW1 I took an exit to the Akaroa Penincula. 
Wow! Will I ever stop saying wow? I don't think so. Again if you have a day and a half to spare come here. I arrived in the afternoon and after securing the most spectacular view in town (Aka-View) I returned to explore Akaroa on foot. What a charming town. It really looks French and European, I even found a restaurant founded by a Portuguese chap... what about that...
I had a great dinner at Bully Hayes and retired to look at the view from my room. The bay was illuminated and it looked amazing. I could not wait till the morning. I read until I fell asleep.
The next morning I had another sumptuous breakfast. I could get used to this life. The couple who own Aka-View were ever so nice and hospitable. I wish I had more days left so I could have stayed longer in every place, or at least in some places. I decided to drive back to Christchurch through the peninsula and visit one or two beaches. I stopped in Okains Bay and Chorlton. And if I am not confused here I saw a sign to a place advertising 'cream teas' - devonshire scones served with jam and cream to accompany your english tea. How amazing could that be... and it was... unbelievable! I was told to go and see the views for 5 min while she baked fresh scones. I walked the short distance to the top of the hill to appreciate the view of the bay and beach below. When I came back to the house I paid better attention to the decoration, I could not believe it, this house looked like a museum. It was another unforgettable moment.
I drove back down slowly and stopped at the little church near the bay. The lady from Chorlton House suggested it and I was pleasantly surprised when I went inside. The wood carvings were fantastic and I felt the love that carver showed while working on the decoration of this little church. No wonder it is considered the prettiest church in the south island.
The drive through the peninsula provides enough view points and stops to last a couple of hours but I still managed to get to Christchurch in the afternoon, in time for a coffee and a walk around.
Again I chose another restaurant in New Regent Street, this time I was lucky to find a seat outside in the esplanade. Nice! The sun was shinning, the wine was great and I could not feel happier. However a bit later I felt the nostalgy of the last night. My last night in NZ.
The next morning I decided to drive around other parts of the city and ended up in Mona Park. What a beautiful place to do a picnic, to eat lunch in the Café in the middle of the park, or just to go for a walk. I decided to seat at the café and have brunch.
How many things I had seen, how many times I had been overwhelmed by the beauty of this place and by the kindness of New Zealanders. I truly wish I can come back one day.
On the flight back via Singapore I was priviledged to see the new terminal 3. What an amazing space. I run to terminal 1, or was ir 2?, ops forgot but I had to go back to the shoe shop where i had bought my sandals on my arrival. The sandals were great, versatile, cheap and ever so comfortable, so I got two more pairs. At £8 each I wasn't going to argue...
No chance to get to the pool this time, shame...
Back home... what a shock!


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