Tenerife - Exploration visit
The heat that invaded my senses denied the announcement made
by the pilot, it was 34 degrees not 24 degrees. I loved it immediately.
My host’s house was delightfully placed in the mountains in
Granadilla and I could see the sea from there. The sea was exactly where we
went as soon as I left my bag. El Médano is a volcanic sand beach, therefore it
has black sand. Here due to the strong winds, kite surfers use it as a base. I was
loving every minute of it. It was over 30 degrees, I was at the beach within 30
minutes of arriving at the airport and already watching kite surfers. Wow! It
can’t get better than this but I know it will. It always does with me. Nature,
people or life in general always surprise me and exceed my expectations.
Frank my host is a
free spirit. I love meting people that know what they want and do not pretend
to be this or that type of person. I drank from his knowledge of the island. I
learned that Tenerife and surrounding islands were formed after a volcano
erupted and lies where people believe Atlantis once was. The secret of these
islands is nothing less than its location and I was pleasantly surprised to
learn that these islands erupted right where the north Atlantic winds and the
southern Atlantic winds meet. The northern winds swirl and bring rain and
coolness to the north of these islands and the southern winds bring warmth from
Africa and the equator. Making the north and south of the island very different
indeed. Green and humid in the north, sry and arid in the south. This fenomena
is also responsible for the constant spring weather and what changes is mainly
the higher temperature. From over 30 in summer to over 20’s in winter.
My host made dinner, grilled steak in his wall bbq, plus
papas arrugadas. Potatoes boiled in loads of rock salt. I loved them. These
were served with green and red sauces. Of course these were made to a
traditional recipe by his mother but I gathered the green one had vinagre,
olive oil, garlic, salt, coriander and some other secret spices. The red one had
red peppers obviously, so I shall reproduce them one day. Can’t wait.
I like this weather. Let’s see what El Hierro brings.
I took the bus from Granadilla to Santa Cruz and enjoyed the
coastal road. The bus journey to the airport was quick and soon I was already
landing in El Hierro. As soon as I got out of the airport I liked the aura of
the place. I loved the dry sea smell. Every place has its particular smell and
I smelt nature unpolluted and fruity. Don’t ask me why. The complete opposite sensation
I had in Tenerife. The latter is somewhat impersonal, spaces not relating to
each other, like everyone for themselves. In El Hierro, there was feeling of
connection between people and land, not sure if I am right as I just landed but
that was my feeling.
My host picked me up from the airport and took me to Tamaduste,
a spot for bathing near the airport, where his friend Tom had been waiting.
Then we headed to his home where I was offered to stay in a little studio, just
perfect. His house e sits in the hill in Los Llanillos overlooking El Golfo. It
is said that the valley was formed when the crater sank into the sea. The house
and studio overlook the sea and it is just magnificent. I have been shown on a
map where I should go, the points of interest and the roads. I have also been
told the temperatures over winter and this may not be the ideal spot weather
wise, for the rest, it’s perfect so far. I can’t wait to see some houses and
then decide.
Today I am renting a car and driving direction south to La
Restinga. I can’t wait to explore. I was pleasantly surprised when I met the
owner of the rent-a-car Rosamar. Mr Rocha is an old Portuguese gentleman from
Trás os Montes, we talked about living in the island and houses to rent.
As I drove south I could not but wonder how could such
beauty be born from ugliness. The whole island is volcanic and therefore bare
in most places, with brown earth covering most hills. Then the road passed
through the forest just so I could not continue my thoughts of bare and brown.
La Restinga is a forsaken place, with too many unfinished buildings. I had some
lunch but then wondered if I should have waited because when I arrived in Tacorón
there was a lovely snack bar with a esplanade facing the sea. Oh well never
mind.
I had coffee and took pictures and headed back to El Pinar, Mirador de
Las Playas, San Andrés, Tinor, Valverde and then I headed to Las Playas. I saw
the fred olsen ferry arrive at Puerto de La Estaca but I did not stop, the
place was not that interesting. The coastal road is delightful and the houses
far and between just as I like but I could not find any to rent. I asked but
there were only small apartments available. I went back home through Valverde
and Mocanal.
Another day another adventure. Today I drove west, and saw
what bare is all about. On this side of the island there are no houses. I
stopped to take pictures at Las Arenas Blancas, a whitish sandy beach, the sand
of which flew all the way from Morroco… Now that is interesting. And it lands
only here in this corner of the island. Fancy that. The road ends a bit after
Playa del Verodal and steeps up the mountain to the Sanctuary and El Sabinar
where the oldest sabina tree lays majestically on a hill.
Now this is a dangerous road, and I am not one for being fearful,
luckily there are not many cars on the roads at one given moment because this
particular road was too narrow in places and I wished no one came the other
way. Then I had to drive it the whole way back as the road does not come down
to the Balneario, shame because I was so close. So I drove the same dangerous
road back and then headed up to Saninosa the highest town in the island.
Perched in the mountain, its houses all white it seemed out of a children’s
book story. I stopped at Charco Azul for a swim in a natural pool. What a
beautiful spot. Then after a shower at home I drove up to Mirador de la Peña
for lunch. The luxurious restaurant has glass windows over the El Golfo valley
and one can see up to where the eyes can see, wonderful, just wonderful.
After lunch I drove up to Charco Manso and through the
fields to reach the main road towards Las Puntas, then stopped for a swim in La
Maceta. Another wonderful spot with 3 or 4 natural pools. The sunny day ended
close to 7pm and I drove home for a shower and something to eat.
Tonight there was a celebration at the port, the last of the summer, but it was cancelled due to the strong winds. Amazing in this side of the island the sun was so strong and no wind whatsoever. That is why this valley is the best part of the island to live. The swimming spots are also excellent except in winter when waves can reach 8 metres.
Tomorrow I will be looking at several houses. I also need to
go back to the Miradouro de la Peña to see if I can find my black cardigan as I
think I may have lost it there.
I drove to El Sitio, to Ralf’s friend’s place. The place is built in the side of the mountain and the little studios are just adorable. Each has a small kitchen and sitting area separate from the room. Most have a balcony and sea view. I will come back later tonight to hear some music and talk to her. She has other houses that she rents so I hope she has one that fits the bill. My problem will be to go and see it as I do not have any more time.
I drove down to the Lagartario but did not find it that
special. My cardigan was waiting for me at the Miradouro and I smiled. What
Ralf and everyone told me was true, there are no thieves or crime in El Hierro.
I love that. If something important is lost, like a passport or wallet, the
local radio advertises it. How wonderful to live in such a place.
I ate lunch in one of the recommended restaurants and loved
it. Had steak with herreño cheese sauce plus papas arrugadas (I have to make
these at home) yam yam…
One thing I confirmed today after 3 days touring this lovely
island is that the inhabitants of El Hierro are predominantly old people. Lots
have returned from abroad, mainly Venezuela, where they immigrated to many
years ago and decided to retire here. I have to admit that this is a lovely
slow paced island to retire so can't blame them.
However I am not sure if the health care system is as good as in the bigger islands and mainland. This is something I also have to consider one day.
However I am not sure if the health care system is as good as in the bigger islands and mainland. This is something I also have to consider one day.
My time in El Hierro is coming to an end and I drove my
rental car to the airport and left it as requested, unlocked, with the key under the
mat. How amazing it is to live in such a place where theft is not a worry.
I loved this place and want to come back, just not for the winter's 3
months, it’s just too isolated and bare to spend a long time but for a relaxing
few days even 2 weeks I could see myself staying in this beautiful place
spending my days eating well and swimming in beautiful pools.
El Hierro, you have a special place in my heart....
